Congratulations! We've made it to the "ber" months. I know things got a little touch and go there around mid-July when we were all melting in the streets (and putting ice in our wine!), but we've made it to the tail end of summer, and with that comes the first wave of cool-ish weather and a few heavier reds. Here's what I've been drinking recently to celebrate.

Longtime readers will know that I'm always in the mood for chardonnay, and this one — made entirely with steel tank fermentation — sits right at the intersection of quality and value. It's at once weighty and intense without ever becoming ponderous. Look for notes of Opal apple skins, sweet bay leaf and lemon tree flowers. Grab a bottle and be glad someone is making chardonnay feel cool again.

Pinot is always the first red I reach for when the thermometer reads anything below 94 degrees, and BloodRoot, from California's Sonoma County, is the perfect bottle for easing into fall. For me, California's best pinots strike the balance of power and finesse, layering luscious fruit (Rainier cherry, ripe cranberry, hints of cola and tart raspberry) over a grip and acidity that set it up for near-endless home runs at the dinner table.

If my years of hand-selling wine taught me anything, it's that there are two things on a wine label that can make customers think twice about picking up a bottle: German (maybe it's the umlauts?) and the word "riesling." Please do yourself a favor and don't fall for that trap. This dry riesling is why so many wine lovers go gaga for the grape. It's racy and lean, but full of depth at the same time. You'll find notes of lime zest in the glass, and the smells of wet river rocks, orange blossoms and apricot.

Catena Zapata Paraje Altamira Malbec, $25

Argentina's Catena Zapata winery produces a number of different malbecs under several different labels, but this is one of my favorites. In the Paraje Altamira appellation at high elevation, bright sunny days and cold nights gave these grapes perfect conditions to make a wine that is expressive in all the best ways. A year spent aging in French oak barrels adds a layer of vanilla, clove and cedar over waves of violet petals and blueberries. Your first campfire of the year won't be complete until you've opened a bottle.

As always, you can see what I'm drinking on Instagram at @sethebarlow and send your wine questions and quibbles to sethebarlowwine@gmail.com

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